Petroleum-based filler hardens quickly, so you'll need to work fast. By contrast, water-based products are creamy and stay wet much longer. Firmly press the wood filler deep into the crack, then scrape off the excess, making sure not to gouge the knife into the patched area. It's tempting to load up the putty knife with lots of filler and slather it on.
Inexperienced woodworkers often imagine that they can simply sand off the excess. But these products usually harden rock-solid and can be an enormous task to sand smooth. In fact, if you're filling a softwood like pine , the filler may become stronger and harder than the wood itself, making it quite difficult to sand. Be conservative when you apply the filler to the joint or crack with the putty knife; you can always apply more if it shrinks slightly as it dries. Press the wood filler deeper into the crack with your finger, then wipe off the excess from the wood.
To remove the filler from your finger, quickly wipe it off with a dry cloth. If any residue remains, you can remove it with water for water-based products , or mineral spirits for petroleum-based wood filler. Scrape the filler from your putty knife onto on a scrap of wood, then remove any residue off the blade using a rag and water, or mineral spirits.
Give the filler at least 30 minutes to harden; a full hour is even better. True wood fillers may dry so hard that you'll have a tough time hand-sanding it. It's better to use an oscillating sander, starting with medium-grit sandpaper and following with fine or grit paper.
Conclude by hand-sanding with grit sandpaper, rubbing at the filled area in the same direction as the wood grain. This will leave faint scratches in the filler that match the pattern of the surrounding wood and will help the filler accept the stain in a more realistic manner. Sanding dust left on the surface can create problems during staining or finishing. The following are some of the benefits of using wood putty for your project: Application — Wood putty is extremely flexible, affording you the luxury of patching up tiny cracks to large imperfections using a putty knife to cover wider areas.
Color Combinations — As previously mentioned, wood putty comes in different tints to match or contrast the wood surface you are working with. Long-lasting — When appropriately stored in a cool and dry place, the wood putty should last you up to 20 years.
Even if you only use a small portion of it for your project, you can stow the rest of it for use on another project. Water-based vs. Petroleum-based Wood Fillers The two basic classifications of wood fillers are water-based and petroleum-based. These are some of the benefits of using wood fillers: Quick-drying — Contrary to wood putty, which may remain wet and flexible even after a few hours, wood fillers dry much quicker into a hardened finish.
Wood fillers are perfect as a quick fix, as some kinds available in the market can dry in as little as 10 minutes. However, it will take to raw, porous wood extremely well, readily filling holes and cracks.
When To Use Wood Putty or Filler Both products can be significantly beneficial in repairing wood products when used appropriately. Wood putty comes in all sorts of colors to match different species of wood or stain colors. You can even combine colors to create a custom match that will blend in perfectly! Wood filler is like the first aid kit for your wood projects.
If you end up with a split in your project during construction, you can use your wood filler to patch the crack. It can also be used to hide nail or screw holes, so your painted project looks flawless. Wood filler comes in two main forms: water-based and solvent-based. Water-based is suited for indoor applications, while solvent-based filler will be more resilient outdoors. Use wood filler on a project that needs a fairly large repair before painting or staining.
You can patch nail or screw holes, gaps between boards, or fix a dent with wood filler! For example, say you're building a project that called for countersunk screws. You can leave the screw heads visible, or you can patch them up with wood filler. After the wood filler dries, sand it down flush with the surrounding wood surface and paint it to disguise the patch. You can also use wood filler to cover up exposed plywood edges.
This is a much messier process than edge banding , but works in a pinch! I'll typically do this in areas where the corners and edges will be rubbed frequently, like the top of this entryway bench. Edge banding can catch and peel off, so wood filler will hold up better in this area. Want to know a clever way to make DIY wood filler that matches your project perfectly? Here's how.
Round up some fine sawdust from your project. Usually I just dump out the dust bag on my sanding tools. Then, mix this sawdust with wood glue until you get an easily workable paste. Apply your DIY wood filler liberally to your project.
A perfect match! Wood filler drying times can vary, depending on the amount you use and the climate you're working in. Hi David, you might just want to cut out the problem areas and replace them.
Coat the decking with a protective stain soon after installation. It is sectional. Looking to fill voids, before painting. All outside colonial style home. With most deep holes you are best off filling them in stages to give the material time to set before adding the next layer. Often fillers will sag as they set if you put a whole load in at once.
Kayleigh, you can get fire retardant fillers but you may not get much of a choice in colours. What would bee the best way to fill in a small, narrow gap that occurred when adding mitred trim edges around a tabletop? Thank you! What are your thoughts on caulking? I will be filling old screw holes in a Welsh dresser and then chalk painting over it. I have old hardwood floors on my ground floor that have varying gaps of a few mills between them.
Look amazing but the draught to your feet is a nightmare. Can anyone tell me if that is a sensible or stupid idea before i take the plunge? Wager, the problem of using putty for that job is that it may crack as the wood expands and contracts through the seasons. For that reason cork is the traditional material for filling such gaps. You can also buy or make tapered wood slivers to knock down into the gaps and then sand flat.
The modern solution is a plastic v shaped strip. Could you answer a question for me please? I have built a cabin using oak sleepers which have been sandblasted to give them a good new finish. I have used hosepipe to bed each layer of sleepers on and now have to fill the gaps between the sleepers. The gaps vary from a few mm up to 3cms. Do you think this would be the best thing to use or can you suggest anything else? Any advice gratefully received. Hi Larry, like most of the use cases for putty you need to look for a flexible material to allow some wood movement.
Or perhaps borrow an idea from the world of wooden boats and look into oakum which is a tarred fibre?
Just re used an old tongue abd groove decking laden with nail rusts and old nail holes. Please advice whether to use timber putty or filler to patch the holes before sanding. For decking, the key thing is that it is hard-wearing and waterproof.
Hi Andy, Im repairing corners of a drawer. I purchased Woodsculpt putty to recreate the corners. I understand that wood putty cant be stained. Rather than try to match via paint mixing, i was wondering if putting a layer of stained wood filler on top of the cured putty would work?
Thank you Char. Laid some new flooring in the bathroom screwed them down need to fill where the screw heads have pulled down below floor level. I am refurbishing my pool table and was wondering it would be a better end product if I sanded the whole table back then used filler before staining rather than using filler-sanding-stain? Hi Andy, I am refurbishing an old wooden rocking horse. It is made of pieces of timber and some of the joints have developed cracks over time.
I would like to know what would be the best to fill these cracks both to fill them and give maximum strength to the joint before painting. Your email address will not be published. Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. You can also subscribe without commenting.
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